New Skins

Today I’m headed down to Wichita for Bombardier’s Safety Standdown. I forgot to mention this weekend that Van’s and more importantly FedEx came through and paid for my new wing skins that got damaged during shipment. They arrived nice and safe, this time rolled up rather than flat in the original crate.

Rear Spars Priming Done

Time: 1 Hour

Not a whole lot of pictures today, as all I did was finish up the priming of the rear spar components. Once they were dry I moved the smaller parts onto the shelves to rest and the spars indoors with the main spars!

I then organized the ribs for the left and right wings minus the fuel tank ribs. It is daunting how much work I have ahead of me with just prepping the ribs!

I will get to riveting the rear spar this Friday and Saturday when I get home from my safety conference then it will be on to the ribs!

Rear Spars

Time: 6 Hours

Today my goal was to finish up both the left and right rear wing spars so that I could prime them tomorrow. This would allow me to prime them this weekend and have them ready to rivet next weekend. I have to be out of town to Wichita for a Bombardier safety conference. First up was to layout the all the parts for each side.

The plans have you match drill the two doubler plates to the spar.

The outboard doubler is supposed to have a row of flush rivets that tie the doubler, spar and end rib together, the plans call for countersinking here. I have read several builders sites that have dimpled instead of CS’ing. I decided to follow suite as I’m not sure about the thin material. I will just have to remember to dimple the flange if the rib.

Next up was to match drill the inboard doublers.

The center doubler also needed to have the aileron push tube hole cut in it. Once I had the holes all matched and drilled I used a sharpie to mark the area that I would need to remove.

I used my unibit to drill a couple of holes and then cleaned it up with my dremal’s small sanding drums. I then attached it back to the spar and fine tuned it with a Scotch-Brite wheel.

Once I had both the left and right sides done I cleaned up the shop a little to prep for priming. I debured all the drilled holes then hit everything with a Scotch-Brite pad. I bought a mini orbital sander from Harbor Freight and tried it here. The small pad has Velcro on it and holds a small square of Scotch-Brite pad really nice.

After the prep I cleaned everything real well with MEK and let them dry. While drying I cleaned all my tools and returned everything where they belonged. Then I hit the parts with primer. I will flip them over tomorrow and hit the other sides then.

Another great day in the Hangar!!

Tie-Down Blocks Done

Time: 1 Hour

When I got home last night I was able to clean and prime the tie-down blocks. After letting them dry overnight I was able to get to riveting tonight. First up was to rivet the spacers and nut plates to the tie-downs. Once that was done I was able to bolt them to the spars.

After those are bolted to the spars I bolted the aileron bell crank brackets to the spars. These bolts go through the spar and into the nut plates that were riveted to the tie-downs.

I decided to go with Dynon avionics for my panel so I ordered the Dynon autopilot servo for the ailerons. I did this so that I can attach it to the right wing spar. This bracket takes the place of the bottom stock one that Van’s sent. Just a little easier now than later.

I torqued all the bolts to 25 in/lbs and applied orange torque seal. This allows you to see if the nut or bolt has moved since being torqued. Next up is the rear spars. While I work on those I needed a place to store the main spars, what better place than in my living room! 😉


Time: 1 Hour

When I got home tonight I decided to get a little time in the hangar, they say you should do at least one thing even if small everyday, and decided to work on the tie-downs. First up was to tap the bottom hole to 3/8 – 16 threads. These holes will accept any tie-down either Van’s or a different brand. So I clamped the block in the vice and got out my tap kit.

I then cleaned out all the filings from the threads. Then I hit all the surfaces with a Scotch-Brite pad and cleaned with MEK. After drying I started the priming.

I will let these dry until tomorrow night and rivet the nut plates to the block and spacers. Van’s does it this way so that you can remove the tie-down bracket with just bolts and not having to drill out rivets.