USB Port’s and Fuel Line

Time: 4 Hours

I had two sets of wires for the two Dynon Skyview screens left deal with. The backup battery wires which already have a connector that will plug into to battery that I will buy at a later date. The other is the USB pigtail that you use to plug a flash drive into to update the Dynon software and instrument data. I could have just left the wires lay behind the instrument panel and access them through the back panel door.  I decided to add two panel mounted USB ports to make this a cleaner installation. I decided the best place for these would be next to the hobbs meter inside to forward baggage area. This would allow me to do the updates by just opening the baggage door and inserting the flash drive.

I curled the one foot-long cable to make it more manageable behind the panel.

I drilled the holes for the USB port and filed them to get a good fit using the flash drive as a guide.

I’m happy with how these turned out and it will make the updates real easy. The next thing I wanted to work on was to cut the fuel line on the outside of the fuselage. When I have the wings on an in-place I marked these lines to be cut when I have more room with the wings off. So I cut the lines put the nut and ferrule on and flared the ends. 

I put some red plugs in the ends to keep dust out. It’s been fun catching up on these little task and not messing with the fiberglass for a little while, man I hate sanding fiberglass! 

EMS Wiring

Time: 8 Hours

I had a great day in the shop yesterday working on the EMS(Engine Monitoring System). This Dynon module allows you to electrically input information from many different items like oil pressure, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temps and other things that you want to see on your screen. The really cool thing about Dynon is that they allow you to make widgets on the screen in various configurations for the inputs that you connect. For example on my RV I will have my pitot tube heated which is controlled by a switch. However I would really like to know that the unit is getting the power and heating once I turn on the switch. The heat controller has a signal wire, that when the pitot is getting electricity and heating becomes active, that I will connect to one of the EMS inputs. Then I can create a widget on the screen so that when the pitot heat is off it will be black and when on it will be green so that I have a clear indication that it is working. So first thing to do was remove the shelf I made for the module and drill for the attach hardware, nutplates in the forward side and holes for screw/nut on the aft side since they will go through the cross member brace. 

For the rest of this installation my process was to determine which wires need to stay behind instrument panel in which wires needed to go to the firewall forward.  Once I had that information I determined the length of the harness so that I would have easy access to it should I ever need to work on it and clamped it to the baggage area panel.

With the harness connector secured I started the process of separating the wires that would go to the firewall forward and the ones that needed to stay behind the panel. 

As I found the ones that needed to stay behind instrument panel I went ahead and made those connections to the respective wires, like the pitot heat controller and other items, with a butt splice connector. 

The wires that were heading to the firewall forward I just hung over the firewall to organize them.

One thing that helped was taping the layout for a fuel injected four-cylinder Lycoming set up to the rollbar and highlighting the completed wires so that I knew which ones had been completed.

Dynon builds these harnesses to meet many different configurations so I will end up with a bunch of wires that won’t be needed. So those wires I flipped to the opposite side to organize them. I could cut or remove them however I thing I will just bundle/secure them out of the way for future adds if needed. 

Once I had all the wires connected behind the panel I connected the harness to the module in ran the wires that needed to go to the firewall down through the gear tower and forward through the firewall penetration hole. I cleaned up the wires with zip ties and coiled up the unused wires and secured them as well (they look like a colorful doughnut). 


The second harness on this module has wires that run to the firewall forward for the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) and CHT (cylinder head temperature) readings. I split these out to run left and right, the #2 & #4 cylinders are on the left side of the aircraft and the #1 & #3 cylinders are on the right side of the aircraft.  

On the left side I wrapped the 4 wires in heat shrink to protect them before they exited the firewall.



Three of the wires from the EMS go to the left and right fuel level capacitors. I drilled holes in the left and right side of the fuselage and used a rubber grommet to protect the wires it will put a three place Molex connector on these similar to the other connections I have done. 

I made a measurement to see how much extra wire I would need for the fuel level wires and made the cut. For these wires I will have the majority of extra length on the fuel tank side vs the fuselage side since I don’t want to have the extra wire showing in the cockpit since this area will be somewhat exposed.  


So now the only wiring I have left in the left wing will be the OAT temp probe, if that’s where I end up installing it. 

Pitot Staic Line

Time: 8 Hours

I needed to run the pitot(airspeed) and AOA(angle of attack) lines inside the fuselage and the left wing. I decided where I wanted to run the lines and drilled for two snap bushings at each bulkhead as they went aft from the fuselage side where they will make a 90° and exit to go into the left wing. Once I had the bushings in I ran the lines and secure them with zip ties as needed to keep them out of the way of things like the flap push rod. 


I also needed to reroute the two lines in the wing as I had originally followed the tooling holes in the ribs. The problem with this is it puts the lines exiting the wing too close to the wings spar. Glenn had already figured this out so I adjusted mine like his. I just change the location of the innermost rib snap bushings. In between the last two ribs I rerouted the lines to exit in a better location.  I used a #6 adel clamp to secure the lines to the rib. These lines will be cut to a perfect length once we reinstall the wings for the final time and slide thru the snap bushings in the fuselage side. They will attach to the two elbows that will be inside the fuselage. 

While I was working on the right wing and the pitot/AOA lines I decided to work on the wiring that I needed to run to the pitot and wing tip. On the right wing I will need a 3 wire harness to the tip for the land/taxi lights, a 3 wire(with shielding) harness to the tip for the NAV/Strobe and a 3 wire harness to the pitot tube for pitot heat. At the wing root I used plain Molex connectors as this area should be sealed up from moisture with the rubber seal that will tie the flashing to the fuselage side. Out in the wing tip I might get moisture thru the hinge that I have holding them on so I used Seal-All connectors form McMaster Carr to help prevent corrosion. With the NAV/Stobe I carried the shielding thru the wing root connector and left it un-terminated at the wingtip as per AeroLED’s recommendation.  I started with all the Molex connectors at the wing root and secured them with a adel clamp. 


When we go to attach the wings for the final time I left enough length on the fuselage side to be able to connect the wires with plenty of space as we slide the wings in place. Then as the wings slide into place the extra wire will be pulled into the fuselage and out of the way under the passengers foot wells. 
Once I had the wing root wires secured I moved to the outboard end to work on the weather proof ends. They work just like a Molex except the have a rubber seal that you put on the wire before crimping. Once the wire is crimped you crimp the seal to hold it in place. 

These seals fit nicely into the back of the connector and prevent moisture from getting in.

 Then there is a back peice that snaps into place to hold the wire and seal in place. 

I completed this process for both the land/taxi lights and the NAV/strobe lights and secured them with an adel clamps and zip tied the remaining parts in their bag to the harness so I don’t loose them for later. Then when I get my lights bought I will complete the mating end of the connector on the wires from the lights and make them long enough to connect them as I install the tips. 

I also ordered the Dunon ARINC module, the device that talks between the Skyview system and a certified GPS, so that I could drill and mount the nutplates to the bracket I made a while ago. I really didn’t need this part but I wanted to rivet the bracket to the fuselage and I needed the nutplates to be drilled first. 


So that’s where I stopped and called it a day.