Alternate Air Cable

Time: 1 Hour

In the case of a rough running engine due to the air filter getting clogged and restricting the air flow there is an alternate air door on the side of the snorkel. This door can be opened to allow unfiltered air to supply the fuel injection system so the engine continues to operate normally. I had run the cable in the cockpit some time ago and fabricated the door hole per the plans. Today I measure and cut the cable and attached it to the door. I also secured the cable with adell clamps to the oil return line from the forward cylinder head. It operates smoothly when opening and is not intended to be closed again in the air as the cable has to much slack to push it closed without bending. The idea is to get you back in the ground safely they return the door to the closed position after you remedy the cause of the clogged filter.

Fuel Pump Cooling Shroud

Time: 1 Hour

Back when I installed the engine on the engine mount I installed a cooling shroud on the engine driven fuel pump. This has a flange that allows for a 1″ duct to direct cool air to keep the pump cooler. Now that the baffles are almost done I needed to create a take off of the baffle to allow pressurized air from the inside of the baffles to be used for this cooling. I bought a 1″ flange and marked out where it would best fit so that the duct hose would not interfere with other cables. I used the my 1 1/8″ hole punch to create the hole. Then I laid out three rivet holes and match drilled them to the baffle. Using the bucking bar and gun I made quick work of attaching the flange to the baffle. I measured and cut the duct hose and trial fit it to see how it looked. I will secure the hose once the baffles are painted and back in place for good.

Prop Governor Cable

Time: 1 Hour

Now that the cables are run through the firewall I can start the process of connecting them to the parts of the engine they control. First up was the propellor governor control. My engine will power a constant speed propellor that will adjust its blade angle via oil pressure to maintain a desired RPM. That RPM is set using the cable connected to the governor. On this end of the cable you screw a rod end onto it. This rod end has a bearing that rotates about a bolt as the arm on the governor rotates. The challenge is the bolt needs to go through one direction so that it does not interfere with the arm rotation and hit the screws on the governor. This required me to remove the safety wire and screw holding the arm in place. Then I slid the arm almost off but not all the way. This little bit of room was enough to slip the bolt, rod end and the various washers that are required into position. With the cable end attached I could secure it to the governor cable bracket and adjust the length. The cable operates smooth with a little binding at the quadrant itself. I may need to make a little bend in the arm after examining closer later.

Control Cable Bracket

Time: 4 Hours

Since I have used an alternate throttle quadrant from DMJ and placed it aft of where the stock controls would go I have to fabricate a cable support. The cables need a anchor point so that they can function properly and not move as the controls are moved. I followed my buddy Glenn’s lead and created one similar to his. It started with some basic measurements for where I would mount it. I used one of the three cables to line up the cable end and make a measurement how far forward of the quadrant I would need to mount the bracket. Once I had these measurements I sketched these out on a piece of some aluminum angle. With the band saw, files and my 3M wheels I got it in the shape I designed. I mounting this bracket to the side wall angle that would have been used by the stock arm rest/throttle quadrant. I drilled two holes in the bracket followed by match drilling through them into the side wall angle. Two AN3 bolts secured the bracket to the angle. I ran the three cables, throttle, mixture and propellor, through the firewall openings, through the gear tower and then the bracket. I secured the cables on the bracket with the supplied nuts and star washer. The ends of the three cables have a threaded section for a clevis and jam nut to screw onto. Them the clevis gets a pin through the hole in it and the hole in the quadrants arms. I put the pins in temporally to get the fitment tested. Once I connect the other ends and test the operation I will secure the pins in the clevis with cotter pins. As the cables pass through the gear tower I will place snap bushings that I will cut a split into. These bushings will snap over the cable and then I will slide them into place. Where the cables pass through the firewall I have “eyeball” pass throughs. These needed to be drilled to a larger diameter to accept the cables. I removed the eyeball and drilled them in a vice and cleaned all the edges up before putting them on the cables and securing them to the firewall.

Aileron Boots

Time: 1 Hour

One complaint with Vans aircraft is sometimes they can be crafty and let cooler air in via some of the holes required in the fuselage. Two of the bigger holes are where the aileron control rods go from the fuselage to the wings. These holes can allow a lot of air to work it’s way into the fuselage. So Abby at Flightline Interiors, who I bought the carpet kit for the RV-8, also make boots that cover this area and allow the control rods to move freely. They are easy to install and have a slot down the side that is secured with Velcro allowing them to be installed after the rods are already in place. They have a plastic disk that has Velcro to attach them to the fuselage side wall. So another little task is complete and hopefully these help keep us warm on our future flights.