And More Flap Work

Time: 9 Hours

Today started out with our weekly builder breakfast with my good buddies. I made it home by 10:30 and got hard at it working on the flaps. My work consisted of deburring every hole, finishing all edges, edge rolling and priming. It took me around 3.5 hours per flap to accomplish all those tasks. There are 6 ribs, 1 spar, 2 skins, 2 angle/plates and multiple shims. This work is the toughest and most boring on this build but it must be done and my OCD is in full effect as I want all my edges perfect. Again I only primed the mating surfaces and left the sides that will be painted unprimed. Here are a few pics of the work today but I didn’t take that many since it’s just boring.

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20140510-220009.jpgI was able to get everything done except to dimple the skins as my back was getting sore and 9 hours is enough I think. After I finished up the first flap I took a break and went over to my buddy Glen’s house to look at his finished flaps and how his hinges turned out. I also got a chance to sit in his fuselage to see how the 8 feels, and it feels awesome!

20140510-220331.jpgSo tomorrow is supposed to be a great day weather wise and I should get a bunch of work done if I don’t take the Harley out for a ride! 😉

More Flap Work

Time: 8 Hours

I started today with a few errands I needed to finish before heading out into the Hangar. When I got back a set out to match drill all the holes in the right flap skins and the hinge like I did on the left flap. That went pretty fast since I had just did the left side. Before I broke down all the parts I decided to jump ahead a couple of steps and fabricate the flap support plate and angle. These two pieces beef up the inboard rib/spar area where the flap control arm will connect. First you need to cut down a couple of angles from a piece of 1.5″ x 2″ stock.

20140509-161837.jpgI then cut down the shorter edge to 3/4″ per the plans.

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20140509-162303.jpgThe inboard rib angles towards the inboard as it goes aft which means the plate must be bent to match so that the end that rivets to the angle I just made is square. Vans says that the angle is to be 6.3° First I clamped the piece in my bench top vise at the prescribed 25/32″ line.

20140509-162904.jpgI then used my digital level to establish 0°. You can see that it wasn’t perfectly 90° in the vise, probably my bench is off a little. I then zeroed it out to establish my starting point. I then clamped two boards on both sides of the plate and made a sandwich to give me some leverage and bent away. After a couple of try’s I got the angle perfect.

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The end result leaves the angle square with the spar and the plate matched to the inboard rib.

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20140509-165026.jpgI then fabricated the 4 spacers needed on the aft tips of the inboard and outboard ribs. These are needed where the bottom flap skin stops short of the aft end if the rib and the top skin wraps around and overlaps the bottoms skin.

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20140509-170041.jpgThe bottom skin curls up at the aft end to essentially create the rear spar of the flap. The aft end of the 4 inner ribs get a single rivet to attach to this rear spar. Van’s says that sometimes the rib does not touch the rear spar and you need to add spacers. I had to make 4 of them for the right flap out if .020 sheet but I didn’t need any on the left flap, go figure.

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20140509-182359.jpgI then I larger the forward most hole in the support plate to 1/4″ and drilled the 2 holes for the platenut. This is where the flap push rod will connect.

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20140509-182531.jpgI then put the assembled right flap on the shelf and took the left flap completely apart for deburring and edge finishing. The first thing I did was to drill the spar holes to my workbench to allow for countersinking of the bottom flange of the spar. The top flange can be dimpled but the bottom flange has the hinge on it so you want the inside edge of the spar flange flat so that the hinge sits flush. You don’t want to dimple or countersink the hinge flanges as they are too soft.

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20140509-215629.jpgI did a little edge finishing before deciding that 8 hours was enough for today and my back is getting a little sore. I will get another good weekend worth of work over the next 2 days.

Left Flap Drilling

Time: 1 Hour

I got home tonight from my 2 day trip and did a few house items before going out to look at the flaps. I decided to get an hour of work in and match drill the skins on the left flap. This didn’t take too long so I decided to lay out the flap hinge and drill it to the flap. The process is to drill one side to the flap and leave the other undrilled until you install it on the wing. You make the trailing edge of the aileron and flap match. This adjustment of the position of the flap in relationship to the aileron happens on the flap hinge either moving the hinge aft or forward. From what I have read it is always aft, meaning the centerline of the hinge moves aft or away from the rear spar of the wing. What can happen is you have to move it so much you can make the holes in the wing side of the hinge get too close to the edge and impede on your edge distance for rivets. To help me with this potential problem I moved the flap side of the hinge out 1/32″ vs flush with the edge if the skin.

20140508-213453.jpgI then worked on drilling the hinge. These new deep reach clamps work awesome for this. I just drilled and then clecko’d as I went down the line. That’s all I did tonight as storms were approaching and I wanted to get my truck in the garage.

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Flaps Start

Time: 1 Hour

I actually had plans to get a lot done in the Hangar today but we had a pop up trip to Arkansas so that didn’t happen. I did want to get a little work done when I got home so I grabbed all the parts for the flaps and started assembling so that match drilling could begin. There are a couple other tasks ahead of this step but I wasn’t going to make a lot of noise so my neighbors don’t begin to hate me. Van says that these are the easiest control surfaces to build and I believe them as it ink took me 30 minutes to put these completely together.

20140506-213908.jpgI then grabbed a section of the piano hinge for the right flap and and clamped it in place with my new deep reach clecko clamps.

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20140506-220741.jpgThat’s where I stopped for tonight and will get back at it Friday and this weekend.

Aileron & Flap Gap Fairings/Braces

Time: 9 Hours

Today I needed to complete the prepping of the aileron gap fairings and the flap braces. I started with the left flap brace and hit all the edges on the scotch-brite wheel. These have 17 holes in them that need deburred which took a while.

20140426-115950.jpgOne corner of the flap brace, the inboard spar side, needed to have the corner trimmed so that it fits around the spar doubler.

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20140426-120120.jpgI then grabbed the bottom skins so that I could match drill all the holes.

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20140426-120211.jpgI then removed the bottom skins as well as the fairings and braces. All the holes were deburred on the inside and out. For the aileron gap fairings the flange that rivets to the skin needs to be dimpled so I grabbed the pneumatic squeezer and hit those. Those flanges also needed a coat of primer as they will be riveted to unprimed skin. I could also dimple the corresponding holes on the top skins. I had to wait to do those as I needed to match drill these parts.

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20140426-151405.jpgWhile the primer was drying on the aileron fairings I setup the flap braces for countersinking the skin side flange. Normally you could just dimple these however along with the brace and skin I will eventually be riveting the hinge to this spot on top brace flange sandwiching the brace between the skin and hinge. You don’t want to dimple the hinge flange so you need to countersink the brace to accept the skins dimples. I just rolled up the carpet on the workbench and drilled matching holes and clecko’d it in place. These holes will give the countersink bit a guide so it doesn’t wander as the hole in the metal get larger.

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20140426-155831.jpgI taped off the flange with the countersinks and primed them so I won’t have to prime that area of the bottom skins later. While that primer was drying I got to riveting the aileron gap fairings. I was able to get to all these rivets with my pneumatic squeezer. The spar side flange used AN470’s and the skin side used AN426. All turned out very nice however I had a little pillowing on the spar side flange in just a couple of spots. You won’t ever see it so it’s not a big deal.

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20140426-175034.jpgThe flap brace was then clecko’d on for riveting, I will have to use the gun and bucking bar for these as it is reversed compared to the aileron fairing.

20140426-175204.jpgRiveting by myself is a challenge but I’m getting better and better at it. I was able to get bit flap braces done fairly quickly without any problems and they all turned out pretty nice.

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20140426-184024.jpgI ran the SafeAir pitot and AOA lines in the left wing, just one of many items that I need to accomplish in prep for closing up the bottom of the wings.

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20140426-190100.jpgTo start on the ailerons is the next big task. The ailerons are like the elevators in that they only have end ribs and use small stiffeners in the top and bottom of the skins. They come in a long piece that you have to cut the individual stiffeners out of. Once they are all free you have to cut the angles out so that they fit in the skin as it tapers.

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20140426-194641.jpgAfter marking all the angle cuts I fired up the bandsaw and made pretty quick work of them.

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20140426-194822.jpgI think that will be a good place to call it a day, 9 hours of good Hangar time! Breakfast with the builders and then another good day tomorrow.