New Tools and Elevator Work

Time: 6 Hours

Today started by creating a couple of useful tools, both get credit from Jason at www.rv7-factory.com. The first is a hinge alignment pin. Due to the tight space where the rudder meets the VS or the elevators meet the HS it is very difficult to get the hinge bolts in place with everything else lined up. This tool allows you to line everything up from outside the confined space. Then you can deflect either the rudder or elevator to slide the bolt in.

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20130608-102510.jpgThe second tool is a bolt retention tool. It will hold a bolt and allow you to get it into very tight spaces. I just used a piece of aluminum from the local hardware store that had the right dimensions I wanted. I made two pieces, one as the handle and the other the clamping piece. I drilled a #12 hole in the clamping piece and used the bandsaw to connect that hole to the edge creating a slot. I then created a slight bend creating a gap when the two pieces are laid together. A couple rivets later and I’m done. It looks like it should work well.

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20130608-110015.jpgBoth of the tools worked well after a little tweaking. Here is the view with the pins in.

20130608-185323.jpgAnd we have a complete VS and rudder!

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20130608-185409.jpgNext up was to work on the right side elevator. Mostly match drilling and setting everything up.

20130608-185521.jpgEach control surface, the rudder and both sides of the elevators, have a lead weight ahead of the hinge line. This is to help balance them and give a better feel while flying. As I was working on the right elevator you have to match drill this weight. Not much fun to drill through thick lead. After you match drill it you remove it to make it easier to handle. Once I was all done with the elevator match drilling a light came on in my head! Something didn’t look right! As it turns out I matched drilled the lead with the head of it pointing inward rather than outward! Oops! Well that’s the first big mistake that requires an order to Van’s for parts. So I ordered a new weight, rib and strap, all that were drilled wrong in the process. I also ordered 2 extra ribs as I plan on cutting off the narrow tips to make riblets for the trim tab and l elevator. More on that in the future. So I called it a day cause its time for hockey, lets go Blackhawks!!

Rudder Finished!

Time: 3 Hours

Today was another milestone for me, completing the rudder. The first step was to match and enlarge the holes with the drill. Then I dismantled the leading edge and removed all the blue protective film and deburred the holes. Now was the fun stuff, reattaching the leading edge. That took me close to 45 minutes. Once complete the next thing to do is use pop rivets to secure it.

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20130607-233331.jpgI’m real pleased with the outcome! The joint is tight and the curves look good, it will fly!

To install the rod end bearings, the parts that fit in between the hinge brackets on the HS you need a special tool. I took a lesson from a fellow builder, Jason, at www.rv7-factory.com and built one. As per his instructions I took a piece of 3/4″ PVC pipe and created a handle. I then took a smaller piece of 1/2″ PVC pipe and cut a slot in the end that was just wide enough for the rod end. That piece was then glued inside the 3/4″ piece after removing a little bit of the outside of the 1/2″ piece. What you end up with is a socket of sorts that works perfect. I went a step further and added a 3/4″ T on the end for a handle.

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20130607-234022.jpgAfter installing the rod ends and setting them at the correct length I brought out the VS. I just laid them out to see the layout. Looks awesome!! I decided to call it a night as it was after 11pm and want the neighbors to still like me! :-). Tomorrow I will make a few temporary hinge pins and a tool to hole the hinge bolts in the very tight space.

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Back to the Rudder

Time: 5 Hours

After bending the trailing edges of the elevator I decided to build a jig to roll leading edges. I have read several builders websites and have done a ton of research on vansairforce.net to come up with a game plan. I decided that I would use 3/4″ conduit pipe to roll the edges. That pipe would be held down by u-bolts in 3 places corresponding with the hinge locations. Those bolts would help hold the skin firmly on the table while rolling. The procedure is to use a pipe secured to the skin with tape and use several hands to roll up the edge. Since its just me I needed some extra help. That’s where the u-bolts come in.

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20130606-210557.jpgI made all the measurements and decided where I wanted the pipe to layout. I decided to have the pipe line up 10″ from the edge to make it easy to reach. Then I realized that when I flip the rudder over that I would be reaching a long way from the opposite side. So I moved all the u-bolts the middle of the table. Then I used Gorilla brand tape, this stuff is awesome, and placed it along the skin I would be rolling.

20130606-211342.jpg20130606-211513.jpgThen I laid the pipe on the tape perpendicular to the skin and placed the u-bolts over the pipe.

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20130606-211756.jpgYou can see the hole I drilled in the end of the pipe. That’s so I can insert a metal rod to use for torque when rolling. Here is the end results:

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20130606-212016.jpgAfter I have my friend inspect the curves I will debur and rivet it using pop rivets. All I all a great day of work and confidence building!

Elevator Riveting

Time: 6 Hours

Today’s items for the hangar were to rivet all the stiffeners to the skins as well as the trim servo plate. The servo plate was made possible as my tool order from Avery tools arrived. I needed a #6 dimple die to dimple the plate where the #6 screws will hold the plate on the elevator. All these parts get back riveted.

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20130605-222601.jpgHere you can see the trim servo plate support riveted in place. It has the 7 nut plates riveted to it for the #6 screws to attach. Notice the smaller heads of the NAS1097’s compared to the AN426 rivets.

20130605-222807.jpgI just laid the trim servo plate on it to see the fit. The support plate allows for the plate to sit flush with the skin. A perfect fit!

20130605-223016.jpgThe next step will be to bend(flatten) the trailing edge of the left and right elevators. For this you need a brake and Vans describes how to make one. I used 2×6’s, one 5′ long and the other a little shorter. Then hinges are screwed to combine the two boards.

20130605-223451.jpgThis creates a hinged press or brake.

20130605-223539.jpgI then removed the blue protective film on the inside of the skins as it will be hard to do that after the skin is flattened.

20130605-223714.jpgI have read that using a small dowel in the crease will help keep the radius as you squeeze. It worked pretty well on the rudder so I’m going to use it here.

20130605-223843.jpgI decided to secure the brake with some countersunk screws into my table.

20130605-223937.jpgThen you place the skin in the brake and use a couple clamps to give you leverage to squeeze.

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20130605-224112.jpgI was able to get about half way done but my clamps started slipping, so I stopped for the night and will get better pipe clamps tomorrow. Half way done and they look great, it just takes a lot of torque! and need a good clamp. Today was a great day in the hangar, I’m going to have to order the wings soon since I’m running out of aluminum. 🙂