Roll Bar & Tail Spring Work

Time: 8 Hours

Today I asked my builder friend Glen to stop by and help me move the fuselage from the workbench over to a couple of sawhorses. This would allow me access to the center section rivet holes that are in common with the forward bottom skin, left mid bottom skin and right mid bottom skin so that I could final ream them.

IMG_4937.JPG

IMG_4935.JPG

IMG_4936.JPGI then moved up to the pilot seat back roll bar. To install it I removed the cockpit rails and slid it into place and returned the rails. I have read several builders sites and also researched this part on the www.vansairforce.com forum. There are 4 holes that you have to drill up from the bottom of the steal flange up thru the spacer and finally the rail. What builders have found is that even though the roll bar is clecko’d to the support pates in the side wall it doesn’t ensure that the bar legs are flush with the rail/longeron area. What this means is that as you drill up you have the chance to drill closer to the inboard edge of the rail/spacer causing an edge distance issue. Some have had to replace several of these parts for this error. The hole is right on the edge of having an edge distance issue as it sits normally so any movement of the rail/longeron outward will make it worse. So the cure is to clamp the section tight so as you drill up you hit the right spot. So I grabbed 4 of my bar clamps and squeezed the parts as tight as I could get them. I was able to go as far as the rail would let me as it eventually hit the roll bar.

IMG_4939.JPG

IMG_4938.JPG

IMG_4941.JPG

IMG_4940.JPG

IMG_4942.JPGOnce I really happy with the fit I match drilled the two center holes down thru the rail and thru the roll bar leg. I clecko’d as I went to hold everything in place. Then I used my 12″ drill bit to drill up thru the other holes. I was happy to see that the edge distance was fine.

IMG_4944.JPGI finished up the remaining holes and set everything in place.

IMG_4945.JPG

IMG_4946.JPGThere are 2 screws that will hold down this roll bar on each leg and they needed to be drilled to a #19 for the AN509-8R8 screws. I first marked the required holes and then drilled with a #21 first and final sized to a #19.

IMG_4947.JPG

IMG_4949.JPGI did some final drilling on several spots like the center section bulkhead caps and tail inspection panel nutplates. I then moved to the tail wheel spring mount. This steal tube assembly will hold the steal rod that holds the tail wheel. I had already drilled it to the aft most bulkhead earlier in in the tail build. Now I needed to create a shim for where the mount hits the next forward bulkhead. The space can vary and just needs to be filled. What I did was to put the mount in place so I could eyeball how think of shim I needed. I used the mount to trace the outline for the shim.

IMG_4950.JPGIn these next three photos you can see the area to the right side where the shim goes between the mount and the bulkhead. The plans have you look down the tube from the back and sight in the spacing by looking at a small tooling hole in the bulkhead. I just lined it up so the hole was in the center as best as I could tell.

IMG_4951.JPG

IMG_4953.JPG

IMG_4952.JPGOnce it set and clamped in place I drilled 2 holes thru the bulkhead holes into the spacer and the mount. Those will get enlarged later for bolts. This mount now angles down as it goes aft and descends below the bottom skin line at the aft end. For this Van’s gives you a template to remove some of the skin. I transferred the template to a piece of paper and placed it in the skin to mark. I took it to the bandsaw and made the first cut after drilling a hole at the leading edge of the tracing.

IMG_4954.JPG

IMG_4955.JPG

IMG_4956.JPG

IMG_4957.JPGWhat I found was that this cut was a little narrow and hits the welding of the mount so I will need to remove a little more.

IMG_4958.JPGThat was another 8 hours in the Hangar and a great weekend of building. I cleaned up shop, put the tools away vacuumed up all the aluminum shavings from the day. I have a fairly busy schedule this week but should be able to get some time building in.

Longeron Drilling Finished

Time: 8 Hours

We got back on our weekend breakfast schedule after the thanksgiving holiday this morning. After reviving my build spirit with my friends I got right back to the Hangar to start the work. Today tasks were to finish up the longeron drilling. I counted 404 holes in the upper longeron alone. I had finished the drilling up to the aft fuselage skins the other day and that’s where I started today. Not a whole lot to say about this other than I spring clamped the skin to the longeron and used my drill cup to keep the drill bit square. I just worked slowly aft as I drilled and clecko’d.

IMG_4909.JPG

IMG_4910.JPG

IMG_4911.JPGHere is another cool view of the worked I just finished.

IMG_4913.JPG

IMG_4912.JPGI then grabbed the #40 reamer and hit all the holes on the aft bottom fuselage skin on the tail come. There are a couple of holes that need to be match drilled here as well. Here is a couple of shots actually showing me building and don’t laugh at the Croc’s I’m wearing they are the perfect Hangar shoe. 🙂

IMG_4894.JPG

IMG_4899.JPGAfter the final drilling was done on the bottom skin I grabbed the top of the 4 bulkheads and put them in place.

IMG_4915.JPGWith those in place I grabbed the top skin and clecko’d it in place.

IMG_4917.JPG

IMG_4916.JPG

IMG_4918.JPGThe top skin really stiffens things up and aligns everything perfectly. The aft deck is next, this is the area where the horizontal stab will sit and get attached. I squared everything up and clamped it in place for match drilling.

IMG_4920.JPG

IMG_4919.JPGBefore I drilled I marked the notches on the longerons where the HS attach bars will extend up through.

IMG_4921.JPGI also marked out where I will remove some of the top flange of the longerons at the aft end.

IMG_4922.JPGThere are 2 angles that get attached to the aft deck and the farthest aft one has 2 AN-3 bolts that go thru it so I drilled those to a #19 and final sized them to a 3/16″ with my reamer.

IMG_4934.JPGFrom there I moved up to the cockpit rails. These need to sit flush with the mid fuselage side skins to form a nice joint as they will be seen every time you enter the plane. So I squared the edges up and used some clamps with small blocks of wood to hold them in place as I match drilled thru the longerons.

IMG_4923.JPG

IMG_4924.JPGI worked my way forward lining up the edges as I went forward.

IMG_4925.JPG

IMG_4926.JPGI had to use several clamps to hold the area where the forward side skins overlap the mid side skins to get a clean as possible edge there. I will scarf these skins to help them lay nice.

IMG_4927.JPGAfter I finished both of the rails, which turned out perfect, I moved on to the gear tower tops. These have a flange at the top that needed to be match drilled to the longerons. They don’t sit tight and need to be clamped so that their outboard edge lines up with the corner of the longeron. The plans suggest ratchet straps so that what I did.

IMG_4929.JPG

IMG_4928.JPGWith the straps as tight as I could go I used another smaller clamp to help squeeze them together and they lined up great. I then match drilled them and clecko’d them up.

IMG_4931.JPG

IMG_4932.JPGLast thing I did for the day was to clecko the set back roll bar attach brackets to the side walls.

IMG_4930.JPGAnother great day in the Hangar and got a ton done. I love days like these. The down side was I ran out of 1/8″ clecko’s and will have to remove a few in other places so I can continue. This is a good problem to have! 🙂

Longeron Drilling

Time: 6 Hours

Well I finally got out to the Hangar for some more work on the fuselage after the thanksgiving holiday. It’s been a couple of weeks since I was able to get some work done. Today I started the process of positioning and drilling the longerons. The first ones to be drilled are the lower ones. The plans call for the extra caution needed to make sure that the drill bit stays square to the skin as you have several layers to drill through in several spots. For that I used a new tool I bought, called a drill cup. This will keep the bit square to the material being drilled.

IMG_4863.JPGSo with the drill cup I started working on the lover longeron working from the forward end aft.

IMG_4864.JPGThen I moved on to the middle “auxiliary” longerons. Before in installed these a while ago the plans had you draw a reference line for the rivet line. Since these kinda float as they sit right now being just held in by the sandwich of the skins and gear towers. You can move them up and down to get that reverence line centered in the line of holes. I was having a hard time getting the aft end down low enough to be centered. The reason was the angled gussets were binding a little. What I noticed was that I had clecko’d the top in the bottom spot and the bottom in the top. Down side to this was I drilled the lower ones already which opened the #40 holes to a #30 that was on the bottom longeron. The top needs #40 holes to match the skins, so I will order some replacements from Van’s.

IMG_4866.JPGWith the gussets removed I lined up the reference line in the holes and drilled away putting a clecko in as I went.

IMG_4865.JPGNow I hit the upper longeron where it met the engine mount on the forward end. I started with the skin side first and then the top side, making sure to stay square with the longeron as it sits at an angle.

IMG_4867.JPGFrom the top engine mount I worked aft along the top longeron drilling and cleckoing the forward skins. I used spring clamps to hold the skin tight to the longeron and to keep the edge of the skin even with the corner of the longeron.

IMG_4871.JPG

IMG_4869.JPG

IMG_4870.JPGThen I moved to the lower part of the gear towers. There are a number of holes that need to be enlarged to a #19 hole for #8 structural screws. I marked out the 17 holes with a red sharpie and drilled them with a #21 first and final drilled with the #19 bit.

IMG_4873.JPG

IMG_4872.JPGOnce that was done I final reamed all the #30 & #40 holes in the forward skin that were not drilled with the longerons. Next I moved in to the mid fuselage skins and upper longeron drilling. I used the same clamps to make sure that the skin and corner of the longeron matched up. Once that was finished I match reamed all the remaining holes in the side skins.

IMG_4875.JPG

IMG_4874.JPG

IMG_4876.JPGI’m fighting a little bit of a cold and this day went slow but it felt great to be back to building! I cleaned up the hangar and called it a night. Next up will be the aft fuselage drilling and match reaming.

Rear Seat Throttle

Time: 6 Hours

When you put the mid fuselage sides together including the arm rests the plans make a not that if you are going with the optional rear seat throttle now is the time to make the required cuts on the arm rest. I bought an after market throttle for the rear from DJM manufacturing. I had ordered the Van’s throttle so I would have all the extra parts needed to attach and mount the throttle. The new one I bought was not a “drop in” throttle and required a little bit of thinking and planning on my part. My plan was to have the throttle arm come up through the arm rest where the stock one would have. I also wanted the plate to be flush with the underside of the arm rest. The DJM throttle has a very nice anodized plate that has engraving on it for the labels. It’s a solid piece that has bolts that go thru it for mounting. Since the arm rest and the mounting plate are not a 90° angle I had to do some extra calculating to get the plate to sit flush. First up was to find where the plate will sit and mark the arm rest for cutting.

IMG_4688.JPGThen I cut the opening with the Dremel tool

IMG_4691.JPGI used several different parts from DJM and Van’s to get the line up just right.

IMG_4689.JPG

IMG_4692.JPG

IMG_4690.JPGI decided that I would mount the mounting plate on the outside or inboard side of the arm rest and vertical supports. It is supposed to go on the inside but I found that I would have a much easier time and it looks a lot better doing it this way. In order to do this I needed to trim the bottom bends of the mounting plate so that it would sit flush.

IMG_4693.JPGI put the plate in place along with the aft cover and the roll bar support piece to see how the fit was.

IMG_4694.JPGI then removed all the parts and tuned up the opening that I made in the arm rest. I then put all the parts back together and returned the parts to the arm rest area but under the lips of the arm rest and vertical supports. This allowed me to mark the screw holes on the mounting plate. I drilled all the holes to a #19 on the drill press so that I could clecko the whole setup in place.

IMG_4696.JPG

IMG_4695.JPGIn my planning phase I noticed that the mounting bolts would go through both the arm rest and the mounting plate. When removing the mounting plate I would need to unscrew the 7 screws as well as the 2 upper mounting bolts that go through the entire throttle. The nuts would be in very tight space between the throttle and the skin. So I decided to notch the arm rest so that the throttle would only be mounted to the mounting plate for support and the mounting plate would get its support from the 7 screws.

IMG_4697.JPG

IMG_4698.JPGI made the notches large enough to go around the spacers I made out of aluminum tubing to get the throttle to sit just right on the underside of the arm rest. Here are a few photos of the throttle in place. It is a breeze to slide into place when I remove the 7 clecko’s. The rear side plate sits real nice on top of the mounting plate as well.

IMG_4700.JPG

IMG_4702.JPG

IMG_4701.JPG

IMG_4699.JPGOverall I’m real happy with how it turned out. It took a long time but that’s because I don’t have a lot of fabricating experience and really have to think about all the dynamics of the moving parts. I’m getting better and really enjoy this process.

Mid Fuselage Work

Time: 6 Hours

Today I started with debuting all the edges and large holes of the two mid fuselage side skins. Not too much to show with that process so there are no photos of it. When I finished that work up I ran to Home Depot to grab a 4′ section of 3/4″ x 3/4″ aluminum angle for the bending of those skins. The plans give you several measurements that you use to make some lines for reference as you bend. The first is a line 1/4″ below the rivet line that lies at an angle. The other is a line that is 5/8″ up from the bottom of the skin.

IMG_4314.JPGThe plans then tell you to bevel the two edges of a 2″x4″x24″ board at 45° angles. I then cut two 24″ pieces out of the angle I just bought.

IMG_4313.JPGI then clamped the skin between the workbench and the beveled 2″x4″ board on the line I drew below the rivet line. With the skin in place I clamped one of the 3/4″ angles to the underside of the skin lined up with the 5/8″ line I drew.

IMG_4315.JPGI matched drilled to two outside holes of the skin to the angle so they matched. I removed the angle from the skin and clamped it to the other angle and match drilled the two holes so that the two angles now match the skin. I also had to cut the web on one end of the top angle so that as the skin/angles are rolled that it wouldn’t interfere with the wood.

IMG_4316.JPG

IMG_4317.JPG

IMG_4318.JPGI replaced the two angles to the skin, checked them and added 3 clamps to hold it all together. I then grabbed my large vise-grips and placed them at the aft end of the angles. I used the vise-grips to rotate the skin slowly. I made this process in several steps rechecking the bend. The goal is to have a conical shape starting with an 1/8″ forward to a larger come aft.

IMG_4319.JPGThe plans say it’s better to under do the bend than over do it. I stopped short of 90° and was very pleased with how it looked. I removed all the parts and repeated the whole process on the other skin making sure that I did the bend in the proper direction so I ended up with a left and right skin. Before I could put these skins on the seat structure I needed to drill a 2 5/8″ hole in the right outboard seat rib and the right side skin. This will allow a tube for fresh air to run from the NACA vent in the right wing thru to the eyeball vent for the passenger. Van’s punched a hole in both pieces so all I had to do was break out the fly cutter and make the cuts.

IMG_4320.JPG

IMG_4321.JPG

IMG_4322.JPGWith that done I checko’ed the forward and aft outboard ribs in place as well at the edge floor support that runs along the top of those ribs. Now that they were in place I could add the side skins. I was very pleased at how the bend looked when installed.

IMG_4323.JPG

IMG_4324.JPG

IMG_4326.JPG

IMG_4325.JPGI then added all the substructure to the side walls including the arm rests, side bulkheads, aft bulkhead, floor side support and gussets.

IMG_4327.JPG

IMG_4329.JPG

IMG_4328.JPG

IMG_4330.JPG

IMG_4331.JPG

IMG_4332.JPGAnother fun day in the Hangar and things really taking shape. Here is a view of the hole fuselage with some skins on. I have to fly the next couple days and have training next week so the build will be on hold for a week and a half but I will hit it hard when I’m back.

IMG_4333.JPG

IMG_4334-0.JPG