Deburring & Dimpling

Time: 6 Hours

Now that all the substructure has been final drilled to match the skins all the hikes need to be deburred. The plans have you start with all 6 skin panels, 2 forward, 2 mid and 2 aft skins. That’s a lot of holes to debur since you have to do both the inside and the outside parts of each hole. So with a fully charged electric debur tool I went to work. Not to much to show with this process so I didn’t take any photos. I ran the battery dead before I got halfway done so I had to move on a little while it charged up. The forward skins have 2 reference tabs at the bottom for fitting and they need to be trimmed off at this point.

IMG_5031.JPGI also received a few goodies in the mail this week. First up is my Andair fuel valve. These are precision made valves that really make the stock valve that Van’s sends look pretty bad. A lot of builders go this route and there is a lot of documentation showing great installs of this valve.

IMG_5048.JPGI also got a gift certificate from the best girl friend ever to Cleveland tools which I used to but a rivet spacer that allows me to evenly space rivet holes when I freestyle build.

IMG_5049.JPGThe other thing I got was a tail light adapter that will get riveted to the lower part of the rudder and make maintenance easier down the road.

IMG_5050.JPGAnother item that was delivered was my battery hold down. I want to install the battery in the forward baggage lower area based in my buddy Glenn’s experience with it in the same place. I wanted a sleek yet strong mount that would allow easy battery replacement. Here is what I came up with and will make an attachment plan later this week.

IMG_5051.JPGI finished up the deburring of the skins and all other items called out in the plans. I then moved on to the dimpling process. There are a lot of areas that get dimples and some that don’t. I used tape to mask the holes that I don’t want to dimple, these are mainly ones that line up with the longerons as they were countersunk.

IMG_5056.JPGI made sure to scuff the items before dimpling them to make it easier later for priming. Not a lot of pictures today but a lot of work done. Another good day in the Hangar.

Deburring & Mods

Time: 4 Hours

I had breakfast with the guys this morning before running to do some Christmas shopping. Man my right shoulder is in pain from al that countersinking of the past couple of days. Before heading home I stopped by my buddy Glenn’s to look at several parts on his -8. I wanted to make a few measurements to make sure I would end up with similar results. Besides finishing up the hole deburring of all the parts I didn’t get done yesterday I had three goals for this afternoon. The first was to get the 12 volt outlet, from steinair.com, and the headset jack holes cut for the passenger. I liked the quality of this 12v outlet and how it has a spring cover. These items will be on the bulkhead that’s even with the passengers seat back. I decided to put them behind the passengers right elbow since we would be getting into the airplane from the left side eliminating the chance of kicking wires as you entered.

IMG_5025.JPGI ran into an OCD issue as the bulkhead is curved at this location, so I could have centered all three holes between the flanges in their respective locations which would make the three holes appear curved. The other option, the one I chose, was to set the 12v outlet and make the two other holes plumb with it but not centered between the flanges. I just liked the look of nice vertical line between all three. OK OK I know these will rarely be seen by anybody and when it is nobody will ever care but I will see it and care and it’s my -8 so there. The second task was to prep the install of the Dynon autopilot pitch servo brackets. These get installed at the aft end of the rear baggage support ribs. The brackets nest along with the angles that are already formed into the ribs. Since I had the side skins removed there was some lateral movement with these ribs so I installed the baggage floor to give these ribs some stiffness.

IMG_5020.JPGBefore I could drill the brackets I had to trim part of the top lip of the bulkhead at the aft end of the ribs.

IMG_5019.JPGWith the ribs secured and the bulkhead trimmed I clamped the two brackets to the ribs.

IMG_5021.JPGI used the existing rivet holes to create a center line on top of the new brackets.

IMG_5022.JPGWith those lines drawn I was able to mark off two locations for two rivets to secure the brackets to the ribs. I then took the brackets to the drillpress and drilled for holes. I then used those holes to match drill through the ribs.

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IMG_5023.JPGNow those brackets will be ready to rivet along with the other parts as I build. The third and last task I wanted to finish today was to create two new angles for where the forward armrests would be for the pilot. I will be designing new and wider armrests that will have an angled’s part that meets up with the instrument panel. These angles will be used to support the new armrests when I’m done. Its a little hard to describe what I’m going to do but you will see later on in the build. For now I just cut some angle to match the length of the current armrest and used the existing holes in the armrests to drill the new angles.

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IMG_5027.JPGI cleaned up the shop and decided to call it a night as I have an early flight tomorrow morning. Another great weekend in the Hangar!

Lots of Countersinking!

Time: 6 Hours

There are 201 holes on the upper longeron sides that need countersinking. That’s a lot of holes! Pushing down on the drill to get a countersunk on that many holes has my right shoulder on fire but it has to be done so I power thru it.

IMG_5005.JPGI did the right one first and when I was done I deburred all the holes on both sides. On each longeron there are two cut outs needed. One on the very end and one a little forward of that which allows the vertical horizontal stabilizer attach bars to stick up thru. I used a combo of my dremel, files and sandpaper to get the fit right in the first cut.

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IMG_5008.JPGAfter cleaning up the right side I moved on to the left. It took me about three hours to finish up both sides. From there I moved on to all of the loose parts and deburring everyone of their holes. I got all except a few arm rest parts deburred and will get them tomorrow. I did 6 hours of actual work throughout the day, as I took lots of breaks to give my shoulder a rest. I’m just glad to have the countersinking done on all of those longeron holes!

More Countersinking

Time: 6 Hours

Back at the big task of countersinking all these parts. I started with center section box plate that was left clecko’d to the bulkheads.

IMG_4992.JPGThe spacers between the cockpit rail and seat back roll bars get countersunk for the 1/8″ rivets as well as the #8 screws.

IMG_4993.JPGThe lower longerons also get the #8 countersinks.

IMG_4994.JPGThe pile is adding up of parts that got countersunk.

IMG_4995.JPGNext up were the lower and middle aft longerons.

IMG_4997.JPGOn the aft middle longerons they start from the bulkhead just aft of the passenger seat and run to the tail. The forward end protrudes thru the bulkhead just a little right at the aft end of the passengers arm rests. On the left side it ends up covered up with a flap control arm cover (which is a mod I will be doing) but the right is exposed. Some after seat makers also make an arm rest pad to match your seats and this can sometimes interfere with it according to my buddy Glen. So I trimmed this portion off to avoid any problems.

IMG_4996.JPGThe last big “countersinking” items are the two upper longerons. These are long and have a lot of holes. To start you go to the ones on the top flange that mate with the cockpit rails. There are 2 holes that will get match drilled with the rails that the canopy slides in and don’t get countersunk.

IMG_4998.JPGMan these things are long and hard to manipulate in the Hangar.

IMG_4999.JPGI finished up all those holes for the rails and called it a day. I cleaned up and organized al the parts that I had out today. I forgot to mention that as I finished up drilling a part I would debur all the remaining holes and edges if needed. This allowed me to put the parts in a pile ready for scuffing, primer and paint. Overall today I countersunk 384 holes! But have all the side holes in the upper longerons left to do! I’m guessing these would go a little faster if my OCD wasn’t so bad that I have to clean up all the drill shavings up after each piece with the vacuum! I hate working in a dirty workspace! My goal is to finish up the longerons tomorrow so I can get to work on the skins and their dimpling.

Build it up, Tear it down

Time: 6 Hours

As the title says, everything you do with this building process you first build the section with all the parts in place and do your fabrication and match drilling. When that’s done you get to tear it all down so that the holes you just match drilled can be deburred and dimpled(if necessary). But Before I got started on the tear down I had received a small package in the mail from Van’s containing 2 parts I had ordered. The first was the replacement gussets that I accidentally match drilled in the wrong place last week. The other was a replacement of the left arm rest where the rear seat throttle is. I had made the rectangular hole I cut a little bigger than it needed to be. Would the first one have worked ok, yes but it was bugging me a little. So when I ordered the gussets I added it to the order. Fast forward to today when I got it out of the USPS plastic envelope that Van’s used and this is what it got:

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IMG_4985.JPGThe aft end of the arm rest has been smashed down flattening out the 3 flanges a little. I could fix those but the flat part of the arm rest has a dent in it due to the smashing and that I couldn’t fix. So I called Van’s and sent them photos and all the info hoping they will send me another one soon. The gussets were fine and that’s where I started today. It was a quick hop to clean up the edges of the gussets and put a bevel on one edge to fit with the inside corner of the mid longeron. Then match drilled and they were done.

IMG_4986.JPGAfter that little detail was finished it was time to do the tear down. Not much to show in this process as I just worked backwards from assembly.

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IMG_4988.JPGThat took a an hour or so to tear everything down and I had a close call with the long tailcone skins as I had removed the forward most bulkhead early which gave the skins structure when I installed them. Without them there as I removed the last side clecko’s the 2 skins started to fall away from the main section of the fuselage. Basically they tried to curl outward at the aft end. Luckily they didn’t go to far and I was able to coral them before they creased themselves! Whew! I organized the parts from this year down and moved on. The next list of steps on several pages in the manual are simply countersinking the various holes that will accept the bottom skins and the side skins. I slid the main section of the fuselage to the back of my bench, with ballast in the front part, so the center section was hanging off so I had access to the two rows of holes that are on the forward and aft flanges of the center section wing attach points. I needed to counter sink those holes so they would accept the dimples of the mid fuselage bottom skin. After that I moved the fuselage back to the proper place on the workbench. I then started the fun process of countersinking all the parts I removed. The plans lay out the order and I just check each item off as I go. The items I got done today were the lower longeron, mid aux longeron and the gear tower box plates.

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IMG_4991.JPGNot a lot of cool photos today since it is just boring drilling. I use my cordless drill on its slow speed as it gives me better control of the countersinking. I’m glad I have 2 batteries for this as there are a lot of holes. Tomorrow I will get back at the drilling and keep forging on.