Time: 8 Hours
I got an early start today in the Hangar so I could get some work done before our quarterly pilot and staff meeting this afternoon. First up was to scuff the bottom flanges of all the seat ribs. I try to do this before dimpling as the raised dimples tear apart the scotch-brite pads if I do it after. It just happened that I remembered to do it first this time. I then grabbed the pneumatic squeezer and dimpled all the flange holes.
Now that I had all the seat substructure primed and painted I went back to the center section as the paint has had a week to cure. The one thing about the Rustoleum is that it can be worked with after around 5 days but it can be chipped still to get a real cure you need a month or so and it seems like it becomes hard as a rock. So still try to be careful as I can be when working with the painted pieces but I know I will have some touch up to do. I borrowed some bolts from my friend Glen that he used for this task. They have the treads ground off so you don’t damage the close tolerance holes of the spar center bars. They help align everything for riveting
That was the forward half I then moved on to the aft half. It was the same process as the forward except this side has the seat ramp and supports. I had to buck most of these as the squeezer wouldn’t reach.
Now was the time to mate the 2 halves together and match drill the top flanges. Van’s also instructs you to create a wood spacer that goes between the 2 halves to act as the wing spar. I have read several different builders websites on different spacers. My friend used 1/4″ bolts with several nuts and washers. I decided to try the PVC route. The space is called out in the plans as 1 7/16″ or 1.438″. I measured and cut the 3/4″ PVC to exactly 1.438″.
Once the spacers were in I match drilled all the holes followed by countersinking the nutplate holes. There were 3 extra holes in the bottom flange that were not in the top flange. They are for brackets that are part of the rear seat rudder pedals. The plan page from the rear rudder pedals show a nut plate that has 2 rivets on the same side. The holes in the bottom flange are for a K1000-8 nutplate which has the standard left and right wings. I drilled the top flange using the bottom as a guide. I then enlarged the middle hole to a #19 that will allow a #8 screw to go through.