Author Archives: Michael

Time: 2 Hours

Part of the engine instruments is the measurement of the exhaust gas temperature(EGT) and the cylinder head temperature(CHT). These take analog info in the way of a probe that gets heated up and will be converted to a digital signal via the Dynon engine monitoring system(EMS). These signals can then be read in digital form on either of my screens in the instrument panel. For the CHT’s there is a threaded port in all four cylinders that a adapter threads into. Then the probe can easily be inserted with a quarter turn. The exhaust gas probes need a 1/8″ hole drilled into the exhaust pipes somewhere between 2″ – 6″ down from the flange/cylinder. I did some measurements and alignment planning for these so that they won’t interfere with items like the engine cowl. The most important part of the measurement is that all four probes are identical in relation to the distance from the flange so they can be accurately compared to each other’s temp. All eight probes have a length of wire on them and these will get spliced to the EMS wires that I had run a long time ago to the firewall.

Time: 4 Hours

Now that I had the probes all installed I could finalize the wire routing and do the splices. I had a lot of extra wiring from the EMS and just had it curled up on the firewall. I figured out where I want the splices to sit as it needs to be an easily accessible area for future replacements. Ones that was determined I measured and cut each wire to the correct length and began the process of stripping each wire. I decided to use knife splices and cover them with shrink tube to help in the replacement process in the future. The probe wire are interesting as they have a fiber like covering versus the tefzel I was used to. So striping then took a little more time. I used shrink tube to cover the transition of the outer sheath to the exposed wires. Then with the knife spices connected I covered those with shrink tube. Then I covered the entire thing with a large piece of shrink tube to protect it. I organized all the wires and routed/secured them to the engine mount. I left plenty of slack to allow for engine vibration as well. I powered up the Dynon system and tested the probes by putting a heat gun on each one checking to see if the instruments showed a rise. I’m happy to say every one worked perfect. So I repeated the whole process on the opposite side with the same results.

Time: 1 Hour

I removed and cleaned up all the tape I had used to protect the air servo inlet during the build. I also cleaned up the inside of the snorkel of any dust and debris. Then I assembled the parts in place including the filter and the retention cover I made. I safety wired the four bolts so that they would not come loose from vibration.

Time: 1 Hour

I installed the oil cooler and Show Planes mount/duct to the back of the right aft baffle. I had this all test fitted some time ago with the cooler hoses already built. The cooler duct uses a rubber strip to create a flexible seal between the duct and the baffle. Now I will be able to attach the oil lines for the final setup.

Time: 4 Hours

Once I had all the parts of the baffles finished up with the holes needed for the blast tubes and other various parts I decided that I’m calling those completed…until I find out something else that needs to go through them. So I decided to just paint them with Honda marine engine paint that is almost a perfect match to the engine silver. Some builders paint others powder coat and some just leave them bare aluminum. I like the look of finished baffles and wanted something that I could easily touch up if needed. So off they came and I did the standard process of scuffing, cleaning, priming and then painting. Once the paint was cured and I was able to handle without scratching them I started the installation for their final time. Once these are back in place I will be able to start attaching items that go on or through the baffles for the final placement.