NAV/Strobe Wiring

Time: 4 Hours

I’m planning on using AeroLED’s Pulsar NSP & Suntail NAV/Strobe lights as well as their LED AeroSun Vx Landing/Taxi lights. Since I’m working on wiring and I already ran the wire for the Suntail I figured that I could finish up their wiring. Basically I will run wire to the fuselage area where the wings mount, like the autopilot servo wires and terminate them in a Molex connector. From inside the fuselage all three, left wing, right wing and tail need to run to the VP-X power supply. These wires will be a 3 conductor shielded wire. One wire from each side and tail will go to a strobe power, one wire from each will go to a NAV power and one wire from each (sync) will tie together so that when the strobe flashes all three flash at the same time. Now with any srobe you can have radio interference even with LED lights so the wires are shielded. This shield needs to be grounded on both ends unlike radio wires that only need one end grounded. So I came up with an idea to use a two place terminal block. One half will connect all the grounds and a lead to my firewall ground block. The other side will combine the three wires for sync.  

 To handle the termination of the shield I’m using solder sleeves. These cool little items are a clear heat shrink tube with a internal ring of glue at both ends and a low temp ring of solder in the center. I have some that are pre wired with a 6″ length of 22g and some that are not. The idea is to remove the shield except for a small sector then slip the sleeve over there wires and shield that remains. Then while holding everything in place you heat until the heat shrink wraps the wire, the glue and solder melts. This creates a sealed joint and a soldered connection between the wire and shield. Now you can use the other end of the wire to tie the shield to whatever you need.  

     

  I used these at both ends, once to tie to the terminal block and the other just outside of the fuselage to a Molex connector.  

    
 I tested the continuity with my ohms meter and all was good. After finishing up the right side and tail I completed the left wing. While on the left wing side I started the wiring of the Dynon pitot heat. The pitot tube is for airspeed and angle of attack measurement and will be heated to prevent I’ve accumulation. I need a 14g wire run from the VP-X and one to the ground block. I terminated those wires just outside the left side of the fuselage with a 12″ pigtail to allow connecting them while inserting the wings to be easier.   

   

  

Grip Wiring

Time: 4 Hours

I worked on the pilot and passenger grip wiring today. Not a whole lot to show as it was just figuring out the length of each wire, cutting then labeling each end so I knew what they were for. I had bought some wiring mesh sleeve from Aircraft Spruce and ran the wires inside. In one end I crimped all the Molex pins in place and snapped them in the shell.

 I used heat shrink tube to clean up the end as well. This would be the end that terminates at the base of the control stick. The other end had various lengths of wire. Some were grounds, some will terminate at the panel and another would go to the smoke system relay. I secured the stick end with zip ties and adhesive attach points.  

    
 I made the ground connections at the firewall but will wait for a while to get the others done until I have the place meant on the intercom and radios figured out.  

 That’s where I stopped actually working in the RV, I sat and planned other parts for a while, mainly how I’m going to run and tie in the AeroLED NAV and strobe lights. They require a bit of work as the wires need to be shielded so that they don’t cause interference with radios. I came up with a pretty good plan based on some research off of vansairforce.net

More Wiring

Time: 5 Hours
I finished up the power and ground run for the pitch servo to the areas where they will connect. I can’t do the ground yet since I ran out of the printable shrink tube. More will be here tomorrow so I will label it then and connect it to the ground block.   

   

   To start on the autopilot roll servo wiring I needed to drill a hole in the lower side of the fuselage and put a grommet in for the wires to pass through on their way from the servo in the right wing to the network.   

   
   I started with the section on the roll servo wiring that will be in the right wing going from the servo to the wing root. Back when I built the wings I added a 3/4″ pvc pipe the length of the wing for future wife runs. I drilled a hole in the pipe where the roll servo would be and put a grommet in. I also added several strings to help pull any wiring through the pipe. I secured on of the strings in the area of the servo to the end of the servo wiring harness and pulled it towards the wing root.    

     
 I finished off the end at the servo with d-sub pins and back shell.    

     
 I then finished off the other end with one half of a Molex connector to match up to one that will be at the side of the fuselage.  

  


I also cut and finished off the passenger grip wiring with a Molex connector.   
   The roll servo wiring from the wing connects to the wiring from the fuselage with the Molex connector. I made the pigtail outside of the fuselage long so that when we install the wings there will. E plenty of room to connect them before we slide the wing in al the way. Then I will pull the slack into the fuselage and zip tie it down. I did this after seeing just how tight the space is in between the weeding and fuselage on Glenn’s aircraft.       I also grabbed the rear baggage floor while I was thinking about it to cut the slot that corresponds with the snap bushing I put in for the passenger USB wiring.   I ran the runs, power and ground, from the passenger power outlet to the front of the aircraft and connected them.  

 The area below the longeron will be covered up with the baggage floor sides permanently so I left some slack to pull up should I need to remove the jack at any time. I coiled up the other ends by the ground and where the power will connect to the VP-X.  

 I also ran the power and ground wires for the fuel boost pump. I put in a termina block for the pump so that I can easily replace the pump. 


also ran the other ends to the ground block and the area where the power will connect. Man it’s starting to get busy behind the panel!

  
  

 

More Wiring

Time: 4 Hours

I worked on several wiring tasks today. The first was to wire the USB charging port that I cut into place in the passenger side wall support. It was a lot easier to screw into place back when all the parts were laying on my work bench.  

 I decided to run the wires up and aft to the baggage area then down and back forward under all the arm rests.  

   Next up was to cut the pilot grip wires and add a Molex connector. This will allow the stick to be wired and be removable if needed. This was my first attempt at open barreled crimping that Molex uses.  
 I measured where I wanted to cut the wires and stripped the protective sleeve.  

 I cut and stripped the first wire to put the first pin on. The open barrel pins have two crimps, one to crimp the bare wire and the second to crimp the insulation.  

    
 Once the pin is done you slide it into the numbered hole in the connector itself. I needed 14 pins for this grip and used a 15 pin connector. I made a list of what colors when to what pin so that I can match the opposite side of the connector.  

 I had slipped a piece of heat shrink on before I inserted the pins to tie the wires and protective sleeve together whe done. I then moved on to running the auto pilot servo wires, since I needed one of the wires from the servo for the stick grip.  

   There are two pair of twisted wires that get connected to the Sky View network, a power, a ground and a auto pilot disconect wire. I stopped at this point for the day, 4 hours of actual work and 4 hours of scratching my head thinking things through before I cut wires! 

First Wiring

Time: 6 hours

I had received a couple packages in the mail a week and a half ago from various vendors. One was from Summit Racing which had the elbow I needed for my smoke tank high pressure hose. This had a male fitting on one side and a swivel female on the other allowing me to hold the perfect angle as I tightened it down. So I installed the elbow and cut the high pressure hose to the correct length. With the hose cut and installed I tightened down the hose clamp and secured the rest of the hose with zip ties.  

   The other deliveries were from Aircraft Spruce, Avery Tools and Dynon.  
 The Avery box had the custom flap push rods that I knew I wanted to get eventually and heard they were retiring and closing shop so I placed the order. All the other stuff was for wiring avionics. Firs up was to run the pre made harnesses for the ADSB and Transponder. I figured out the route in which I wanted to use and ran the bundles. I put the avionics shelves back in place and taped the avionic mockup sin place to start the layouts.  Once I was satisfied with the routes I zip tied and used adel clamps to secure a place.  

    
 I ran the bundles thru various snap bushings and zip ties on their way to the front. I’m not sure to the exact length they will need to be until I solidify the panel and where items will be. So I curled up the remaining length and zip tied them for later work. I used my shrink tube printer to mark the bundles for easy identification later.  

   I installed the bracket I made to hold the EMS box to help with wire length planning.  
 The other Barnes I wanted to run was the network cable from aft area to the from avionics bay. The Dynon system uses this 9 pin d-sub connections to tie each and every component together so they all talk to each other. Each component has multiple connections so that you may tie others into and out of them.  Dynon makes a 5 port hub to allow 4 item to plug in and one out. My plan was to run one line from the two ADAHRS, via a splitter, from the back to a hub in the avionics bay.  Dynon makes these harnesses in various lengths starting at 1.5′ and up to 30′.  So I bought one that gave me enough length to make it up to the avionics area plus a bunch extra that I can use for other runs after cut. Dynon puts a connection on one end and just the pins on the other so you can fish through small openings.  

   I figured out a good spot for one of the 5 port hubs on the forward avionics wall.  
 Last item I worked on was the Hobbs hour meter. I took some advice from my buddy Glenn to install one even though the Dynon system will keep track of it. The reason is that it’s nice to be able to just look at the meter without having to power up the aircraft. This hour meter will be used to mark key maintenance items.  I wasn’t to fond of having this big gauge in the cockpit. While at AirVenture this year I saw another RV that had the meter inside his forward cargo area facing forward. I thought this was great, it isn’t inside the cockpit and it will be easily accessible by opening up the cargo door. So I did some measuring and came up with the spot that’s close to the edge but does not interfere with the door. I used my Dremel tool to cut the opening and drill the holes for the attachment hardware.  

   All this happened last weekend and I was a little behind in blogging about it. I was in Las Vegas for the NBAA convention and had a three day trip right after. Not sure how much time I will get in the hangar this week as its Thanksgiving and we are excited to have family here for the first time in our new home. I have a lot to be thankful for!