Category Archives: Engine

Time: 4 Hours

Due to my specific engine that incorporates the Superior cold air sump as well as the full inverted oil system the stock brackets and connections to the fuel servo won’t work. These are the connections for the throttle as well as the fuel mixture servo arms. This is a common problem for builders using this engine sump. I already had the two cables that connect the throttle quadrant to the fuel servo and just needed to fabricate some type of brackets. There are plenty of builders that have done this with just as many different connections fabricated. I saw one style at OshKosh this year and wanted to do something similar. I started by laying under my engine looking up and eyeballing where the cable would end up. Then I made some cardboard templates to get a rough idea. I ended up making several versions from the templates in aluminum before I ended on one that I was happy with. Once I was happy with the aluminum ones I repeated the shape and bends in some .050 steal sheet from Aircraft Spruce. These were then primed and painted with high temp engine paint. The paint I ended up using was Moeller Honda marine engine paint. It almost matched perfectly with my engine paint.

After installing them and making the adjustments I safety wired them.

I’m happy with how these fit and securely hold the cables. Another fun fabrication complete!

Time: 1 Hour

In the case of a rough running engine due to the air filter getting clogged and restricting the air flow there is an alternate air door on the side of the snorkel. This door can be opened to allow unfiltered air to supply the fuel injection system so the engine continues to operate normally. I had run the cable in the cockpit some time ago and fabricated the door hole per the plans. Today I measure and cut the cable and attached it to the door. I also secured the cable with adell clamps to the oil return line from the forward cylinder head. It operates smoothly when opening and is not intended to be closed again in the air as the cable has to much slack to push it closed without bending. The idea is to get you back in the ground safely they return the door to the closed position after you remedy the cause of the clogged filter.

Time: 1 Hour

Back when I installed the engine on the engine mount I installed a cooling shroud on the engine driven fuel pump. This has a flange that allows for a 1″ duct to direct cool air to keep the pump cooler. Now that the baffles are almost done I needed to create a take off of the baffle to allow pressurized air from the inside of the baffles to be used for this cooling. I bought a 1″ flange and marked out where it would best fit so that the duct hose would not interfere with other cables. I used the my 1 1/8″ hole punch to create the hole. Then I laid out three rivet holes and match drilled them to the baffle. Using the bucking bar and gun I made quick work of attaching the flange to the baffle. I measured and cut the duct hose and trial fit it to see how it looked. I will secure the hose once the baffles are painted and back in place for good.

Time: 1 Hour

Now that the cables are run through the firewall I can start the process of connecting them to the parts of the engine they control. First up was the propellor governor control. My engine will power a constant speed propellor that will adjust its blade angle via oil pressure to maintain a desired RPM. That RPM is set using the cable connected to the governor. On this end of the cable you screw a rod end onto it. This rod end has a bearing that rotates about a bolt as the arm on the governor rotates. The challenge is the bolt needs to go through one direction so that it does not interfere with the arm rotation and hit the screws on the governor. This required me to remove the safety wire and screw holding the arm in place. Then I slid the arm almost off but not all the way. This little bit of room was enough to slip the bolt, rod end and the various washers that are required into position. With the cable end attached I could secure it to the governor cable bracket and adjust the length. The cable operates smooth with a little binding at the quadrant itself. I may need to make a little bend in the arm after examining closer later.

Time: 6 Hours

I spent some time in the hangar yesterday and today trying to finish up the baffles. I worked all the airseals around the front baffles and got them to sit almost perfectly. I had to trim the upper air ramps a little to make it happen. I’m pretty happy with they way they seal and fit but I’m hoping they lay down after they are used on the warm engine aa they make it a little difficult to put the top cowl on due to their stiffness. So the next baffle task was to drill for three cooling blast tubes. These tubes will direct air to areas that need cooling. That’s for me are the two P-mags and the alternator. So I laid out where I wanted them and drilled a pilot hole followed a 5/8″ hole using the step bit. I used adel clamps to secure the ends and direct them to the P-mags. I ran out of the tubing and had to order more from Vans. I did drill the hole in the right side forward baffle for the alternator blast tube. I put in a small piece of tube in to check the fit. Two more holes I need to drill for are for the spark plug wires. I’m using a special pass thru clamp from Aircraft Spruce that holds the wires firmly as they pass thru the baffles. The shape looks like a number eight. I was almost sure I was finished with drilling on the baffles when I realized I had forgot the blast tube for the engine driven fuel pump. I had bought and installed the ShowPlanes cooling shroud that uses a 1″ blast tube. So I ordered a 1″ duct flange, some ducting and clamps from Aircraft Spruce and will drill for that when they arrive next week. I had one other task I wanted to get done and that was to plug the two holes on the aft side baffles. These holes are for a socket extension so you can get the spark plug in (I think). Either way they need to be sealed. So I made a cover using some sheet aluminum shaped into a circle and epoxied a spaced onto it to account for the angle that splits the hole. I also cut a couple of sheet for the opposite side. These two pieces will be screwed together and sandwich the baffle sealing the hole. So that’s where I stopped for the day after cleaning up the shop. I’ll get back at it next week after the parts arrive. Now to decide to paint or not paint the baffles!