Grip Wiring

Time: 4 Hours

I worked on the pilot and passenger grip wiring today. Not a whole lot to show as it was just figuring out the length of each wire, cutting then labeling each end so I knew what they were for. I had bought some wiring mesh sleeve from Aircraft Spruce and ran the wires inside. In one end I crimped all the Molex pins in place and snapped them in the shell.

 I used heat shrink tube to clean up the end as well. This would be the end that terminates at the base of the control stick. The other end had various lengths of wire. Some were grounds, some will terminate at the panel and another would go to the smoke system relay. I secured the stick end with zip ties and adhesive attach points.  

    
 I made the ground connections at the firewall but will wait for a while to get the others done until I have the place meant on the intercom and radios figured out.  

 That’s where I stopped actually working in the RV, I sat and planned other parts for a while, mainly how I’m going to run and tie in the AeroLED NAV and strobe lights. They require a bit of work as the wires need to be shielded so that they don’t cause interference with radios. I came up with a pretty good plan based on some research off of vansairforce.net

More Wiring

Time: 5 Hours
I finished up the power and ground run for the pitch servo to the areas where they will connect. I can’t do the ground yet since I ran out of the printable shrink tube. More will be here tomorrow so I will label it then and connect it to the ground block.   

   

   To start on the autopilot roll servo wiring I needed to drill a hole in the lower side of the fuselage and put a grommet in for the wires to pass through on their way from the servo in the right wing to the network.   

   
   I started with the section on the roll servo wiring that will be in the right wing going from the servo to the wing root. Back when I built the wings I added a 3/4″ pvc pipe the length of the wing for future wife runs. I drilled a hole in the pipe where the roll servo would be and put a grommet in. I also added several strings to help pull any wiring through the pipe. I secured on of the strings in the area of the servo to the end of the servo wiring harness and pulled it towards the wing root.    

     
 I finished off the end at the servo with d-sub pins and back shell.    

     
 I then finished off the other end with one half of a Molex connector to match up to one that will be at the side of the fuselage.  

  


I also cut and finished off the passenger grip wiring with a Molex connector.   
   The roll servo wiring from the wing connects to the wiring from the fuselage with the Molex connector. I made the pigtail outside of the fuselage long so that when we install the wings there will. E plenty of room to connect them before we slide the wing in al the way. Then I will pull the slack into the fuselage and zip tie it down. I did this after seeing just how tight the space is in between the weeding and fuselage on Glenn’s aircraft.       I also grabbed the rear baggage floor while I was thinking about it to cut the slot that corresponds with the snap bushing I put in for the passenger USB wiring.   I ran the runs, power and ground, from the passenger power outlet to the front of the aircraft and connected them.  

 The area below the longeron will be covered up with the baggage floor sides permanently so I left some slack to pull up should I need to remove the jack at any time. I coiled up the other ends by the ground and where the power will connect to the VP-X.  

 I also ran the power and ground wires for the fuel boost pump. I put in a termina block for the pump so that I can easily replace the pump. 


also ran the other ends to the ground block and the area where the power will connect. Man it’s starting to get busy behind the panel!

  
  

 

More Wiring

Time: 4 Hours

I worked on several wiring tasks today. The first was to wire the USB charging port that I cut into place in the passenger side wall support. It was a lot easier to screw into place back when all the parts were laying on my work bench.  

 I decided to run the wires up and aft to the baggage area then down and back forward under all the arm rests.  

   Next up was to cut the pilot grip wires and add a Molex connector. This will allow the stick to be wired and be removable if needed. This was my first attempt at open barreled crimping that Molex uses.  
 I measured where I wanted to cut the wires and stripped the protective sleeve.  

 I cut and stripped the first wire to put the first pin on. The open barrel pins have two crimps, one to crimp the bare wire and the second to crimp the insulation.  

    
 Once the pin is done you slide it into the numbered hole in the connector itself. I needed 14 pins for this grip and used a 15 pin connector. I made a list of what colors when to what pin so that I can match the opposite side of the connector.  

 I had slipped a piece of heat shrink on before I inserted the pins to tie the wires and protective sleeve together whe done. I then moved on to running the auto pilot servo wires, since I needed one of the wires from the servo for the stick grip.  

   There are two pair of twisted wires that get connected to the Sky View network, a power, a ground and a auto pilot disconect wire. I stopped at this point for the day, 4 hours of actual work and 4 hours of scratching my head thinking things through before I cut wires! 

Battery Cover

Time: 4 Hours

Since I decided to put the battery in the lower section of the forward baggage section I need to make a cover for this area. Normally this area, to the right of the pilots right leg is open for bags and such. I took advantage of this area to place my battery, battery contractor and grounding block. This allows for short wire runs between these items and makes for a clean firewall on the engine side. But with these items in place and open at the top any baggage or items in the forward Baghdad could fall down there. So I need a cover and I fabricated it out of some extra wing skin sheet I had. I transferred all the measurements to the sheet trying to utilize the rivet holes already punched in the skin.  

   It took several tries to get the fit just right as the perimeter isn’t square and there are several notches needed. Once I had the fit just right I laid out three angles to give it some support and match drilled them to the skin. 
 I also drilled up through the Cam-Loc holes for the inboard edge and drilled new Cam-Loc holes in the outboard edge down through the support angle on the right side forward skin. I did not rivet this angle a awile ago just for this reason. That way I could remove the angle to rivet the receptacles to it.  

   There are two rivet holes in the skin that over lapped the inboard floor that I needed to fill so I mixed up some super-fill and added it to them and will sand them flush after they dry.   

 Since I had a little time left before I needed to head out for our New Years Eve plans I took care of a couple other tasks. First was to install my new Odessey PC-680 battery and I cut and installed the smoke system pump ground on the grounding block.  

 I bought the battery so that I could test some the functions, the ones I can without the Vertical Power VP-X, and I will plan on replacing it when I’m ready to fly. The other task I got finished was to install the vertical stabilizer. The bolts are pretty hard to get to now that the other parts are in place and the tool I made a long time ago to hold AN-3 bolts really helped.  

          So that’s where I stopped in 2015, I think 2016 will be an even better year with lots to look forward too. Happy New Years Eve!!
  
 

Rear Throttle Finished

Time: 2 Hours

I received the extra parts from Aircraft Spruce yesterday and started right in with finishing up the linkage between the two throttle arms. I took my time making the measurements for the final cut of the tube as I didn’t want to redo that peice. Once I was happy with the length, knowing that I had a little wiggle room with the threaded ends of the clevis connectors, I marked and made the cut. I then tapped the aft end of the tube and inserted the new clevis and jam nut. It was a little bit of trial and error on getting the perfect length and I had to shorten the tube by about 1/8″. I fine tuned the final length by adjusting the clevis ends either in or out. The goal was to have the throttle movements equal but giving the full movement to the pilots throttle. I finally got it and tightened the jam nuts for now. Next I needed to enlarge the hole that it passed through by the rear throttle where it was rubbing as the throttle was moved forward and aft. Overall it looks really good and has perfect movement.