Category Archives: Fuselage

Autopilot Pitch Servo

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Time: 2 Hours

I received one autopilot servo from Aircraft Spruce today and got right to work installing it. I decided to put it in the pitch spot since that’s the toughest one to get to back in the tail cone. I had installed the mounting bracket a few years ago when I had the tail still open in prep for today. So the process was pretty easy. I started by putting a 9 pin d-sub connector on the end. This is the matching connector to the one I had wired already back to the location where the servo will be mounted.

I did a quick test by connecting the d-sub connector to the one in the RV and powering up the SkyView system. I had issues right away when I powered on the autopilot switch. After a short time searching for issues I decided to take a look at the d-sub pin layout of the wiring I did a few years ago in the tail. Turns out I had a different layout than what Dynon called for on the servo end. So I made a note of how the layout was and changed the pin layout on the connector on the servo. A re-test proved to be perfect. So I then installed the servo which isn’t very easy especially as you are laying in a tight space of the tail. I secured the wires and torqued all the nuts. I also safety wired the two bolts that screw into the servo.

I did the servo calibration and tested the function and all was perfect. Now to order the second servo for the roll axis and get that installed. Every step is getting me closer to flying.

Project Update

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Time: 8 Hours

So It has been a pretty busy summer for us…mainly for me flying and picking up extra hours so we can save for the propellor/spinner. I have done a lot on the RV that is worthy of posting on the blog. I have been cleaning up little items that were on my to-do list and checking them off. One item that I had added on the list a while ago was to remove all the zip ties I used and replace them with cable lacing. I wish I had just started off learning to lace and going that route from the beginning but I fell into the zip tie trance and how easy they are to put on. One problem with the ties is that they can chafe the wires as well as leave a sharp edge on the tail you cut off. So I watched a few videos and taught myself to lace properly and began to carefully remove the zip ties and replace with lace. I started on the firewall forward area including the engine. I then moved to the harder areas like the battery compartment and avionics bay behind the panel. It was a slow process but very rewarding to make it look professional. Here is just a couple of shots of how it looks with lacing.

Flap Actuator Safety Wire

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Time: 1 Hour

One item that was on my list was to safety wire the top of the flap actuator where the rod end bearing gets bolted to the attach bracket. This was a service bulletin for earlier models and is now incorporated into the current plans. I held off on this until I figured I was done assembling-removing-assembling the flaps. One thing I didn’t think of was to pre drill the required hole in the actuator earlier when it was off the plane. So rather than remove it again I decided that I had enough room to drill in place. I used a 1/16″ drill bit and started at a 90° and as it bore into the metal I changed the angle enough to drill through the end clearing the jam nut. I then safety wired through the new hole then around the bolt holding the rod end to the bracket. This prevents the actuator falling out of the bracket if the rod end fails.

Tail Wheel Bolt

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Time: 1 Hour

I had bought the Bogi Bar tow bar from Flyboy Accessories a while back and was going to get the machined tail wheel bolt as well. It was back ordered as flyboy’s has several custom machines parts and it was backlogged in the que to be made. It finally made the air and I ordered one as soon as they were in stock. This bolt incorporates two lugs that the Bogi Bar fits perfectly on and prevents that chance of it slipping off and gives a solid feel. I jacked up the tail and remember the stock bolt and replaced it with the new one from Flyboys. I had to tweet the cotter pin a little to get it to lay flush so it didn’t stick up proud of the lug so the tow bar would slide on. I love the look and how clean it is.

Brake Fluid

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Time: 1 Hour

I had on my list of things to get done to add brake fluid to my brake system. I have read several blogs and watched a couple of videos on what was the neat way to accomplish this task. I decided I would try the method that pushes fluid from the lowest point up. So the idea is to use a small pump sprayer to push brake fluid from the bleed nipple on the caliper up through the brake lines and finally into to master cylinder. I went to Lowes and bought the sprayer and some 3/8″ clear hose that has a 1/4″ ID. I cut a two foot piece of the 3/8″ hose. I safety wires it to the nozzle on the sprayer. The other end I attached a spall piece of 1/4″ plastic line that was left over from my pitot static line. I safety wired those together. This is all to prevent leaks in the hose system as you add the fluid. The 1/4″ fits on the bleed nipple tightly and works well to prevent leaking. Once I pushed the hose on the nipple I turned it a 1/4 turn which opens it. With the sprayer pumped up I pushed the trigger allowing the fluid to flow through the hose, the caliper, the brake lines and into the master cylinder. I pumped enough to file it and push any air out. Once full I closed the nipple and removed the spray hose. With a firm push on the brake peddle I checked the firmness and made sure it functioned properly by spinning the wheel as it was jacked up off the ground and applied brake pressure stopping the wheel. Both sides worked well and I only found one small leak and that was due to a loose fitting. The pictures are for show and you want to pump all the air out of the sprayer lines so you don’t introduce more air into the lines. This process took only minutes to accomplish with this sprayer setup.